John Deere 1025R Tractor Specs Overview

John Deere 1025R Tractor Engine

Type – Yanmar 3TNV80
Engine HP (kW) – 24.2 (17.8)
PTO HP (kW) – Hydrostatic transmission – 18 (13.4)
Rated engine speed, rpm 3- 3200
Displacement – 68.1 cu. in. (1,116 cc)
Battery power – 500 CCA
Alternator (12 volt, amp) 40 40

John Deere 1025R Tractor Hydraulics

Steering (gpm) – 2.8 (10.8)
Implement (gpm) – 3.5 (13.2)
Total Capacity (gpm) – 6.3 (24)
Lift Capacity (24-in. behind link arms), lb. (kg) – 681 (309)

JD 1025R Tractor Transmission

Standard Transmission; Forward/Reverse Hydrostatic – 2 range
Forward/Reverse Control – Twin Touch Pedals
Final Drive – Spur gear
Cruise Control – Yes
Brakes – Wet disk, left hand pedal

Power Take-Off (PTO)

PTO type Independent Independent
Standard Rear/Mid (RPM) Rear – 540; Mid – 2100

3-Point Hitch

Type Limited Cat. 1
iMatch Quick-Hitch Compatibility – Yes
Pump Type – Gear
Rockshaft Control Type – Position Control

John Deere 1025R Tractor Dimensions

Wheelbase, in. (mm) – 57.1 (1450)

Outside width (across rear tires)

R3 – 1199.56 mm, R4 – 1202 mm
Approx. Ship Wgt (kg) – 655 kg


Standard R4, optional R3
Front – 18X8.5-10 R4
Rear – 26X12-12 R4

ROPS Folding Folding

Cruise Control – Yes
Deluxe Lighting Package – Yes
Deluxe Seat, Tilt Steering, & Floor Mat – Yes
Toolbox Optional – Yes
12V Outlet – Yes

The John Deere 1025R Tractor feature a HST. Fluid under pressure
transmits engine power to the drive wheels through a hydraulic pump and
motor. The hydrostatic-drive unit functions both as a clutch and

Twin Touch foot controls allow selecting both speed and direction of
travel with a touch of the toe. Ideally suited for jobs where
productivity is a must, such as loader or mower applications.

The Tractors feature an open-center hydraulic system.

A single-pump flow diverter divides a proportional amount of flow to all
hydraulic functions.

On JD 1025R Tractor, power steering is supplied to the tractor
through the hydrostatic charge pump, which supplies power to the
steering circuit. Dual mid-selective control valve (SCV)

A dual mid-SCV, which is standard equipment, can operate loaders, or
other implements. The dual mid-SCV is also used to operate the optional
independent lift kit for the mid-mount mower.

Engine is isolated from frame and transmission, which reduces vibration.

There are several advantages to this design:

– Provides solid, protected mounting to support loader usage.

– Allows for commonality of front- and mid-mount implements with the X

– Front Quik-Tatch hitch bolts on to the front frame, allowing for quick
installation of front implements.

– Front implements such as blades, brooms, and snow blowers are easy-on
and easy-off for the fastest installation and removal times in the

– Loader/mower compatibility – loader and mower can be mounted at the
same time.

The John Deere 1025R Tractor features an independent mid- and rear-PTO
(no clutching).

The PTO is hydraulically engaged with a wet disk clutch for long life.

Mid- and rear-PTO shafts are operated through a separate clutch that is
completely independent of the engine clutch and transmission.

Allows PTO to be engaged or disengaged while machine is stopped or

Also means that machine travel can be started and stopped and direction
changed without affecting PTO operation.

Mid and rear PTO can be operated separately.

Wet disk brake stops mid and rear PTO for added safety.

Adjusting JD 1025R Tractor Brakes

– Block front wheels securely, disengage MFWD and release park brake

– Raise rear of machine and support on jack stands. Remove right rear

– Remove spring retainer, washer and pin from brake rod yoke.

– Remove bolt, two washers and nut connecting brake bellcrank and
transmission bellcrank together.

– Check the compressed length of the spring on the differential lock
rod. Adjust spring length to 65 mm (2.56 in.) with locknut if required.

– Rotate the differential lock bellcrank clockwise to fully engage the
differential lock.

– With the differential lock fully engaged, use a 17 mm socket on the
John Deere 1025R Tractor transmission brake input shaft to apply and
hold 5-15 Nm (44-133 lb-in)
of torque.

– Locate the set of holes with the best alignment in the brake and
transmission bellcranks. Install the original hardware and tighten to 50
Nm (37 lb-ft).

– Rotate the wheel hub to release the differential lock control and
allow the differential lock bellcrank to return to its original
counter-clockwise disengaged position.

– Loosen the brake rod turnbuckle locknut. Turn the turnbuckle several
turns to increase the length of the brake rod.

– Align the brake rod yoke with the single hole on the transmission
bellcrank and secure with the original pin, washer and spring retainer.
The slotted hole in the bellcrank
is only used for European John Deere 1025R Tractor models.

– Turn the turnbuckle as required to shorten the brake rod until the
differential lock components just begin to engage and a clicking is
heard (or felt in the hub) as the hub
is rotated.

– Turn the turnbuckle in the opposite direction just until the clicking
is no longer heard (or felt in the hub) as the hub is rotated. Tighten
the turnbuckle locknut securely.

– Lock the park brake. The brake rod spring must not be completely
compressed. It should be partially compressed and a gap of 4-7 mm
(0.16-0.28 in.) exist between
the brake rod yoke and the roll pin.

– Install rear wheel and tighten lug bolts to 120 Nm (89 lb-ft).

– Lower machine and check operation of brakes and differential lock.

1025R with 315 hours. I have done oil changes reg as JD states. Oil is
always very black and how much oil should this thing drink? Half liter
in 15 hours was last check. Warranty is running out in the spring but
dealership is getting it back for some warranty issues:

– Excessive oil consumption.
– Top 3-Point hitch mount (rockshaft housing) broke.
– Excessive fuel consumption compared to my old 455.
– Front mount PTO drive shaft is vibrating again (2nd shaft in 75 hours
of use).
– Very ugly cold starting.
– Seems like it is a few ponies less this winter for snow blowing but it
might be in my head.
– Rubber washer on 3-point lift arm that controls the resistance is
toast again.

The excessive fuel and oil have got me concerned since I want this
tractor for long term use. My old 25 year old 455 (3-cy yanmar diesel)
runs better. I also read somewhere on this form that there is 2 types of
seat springs. Dealer cannot find anything on a different spring but the
stock spring bottom out when I get my winter coveralls on when bottoms
out and back is killing. Does anyone know a part number that I can give
JD to order me some?

What were you doing when the casting on the rockshaft housing broke?
Have you stalled the tractor while you were snow blowing? Have you used
your snow blower as an “ersatz” plow? Do you have a block heater
installed? Do you let the glow plug heater go out before attempting to
start? Are you running summer blend diesel in really cold weather
starts? (Meaning is your fuel starting to gel in the fuel filter). If
you are leaking diesel into the crankcase it’ll be black and the oil
level will go up and you’ll smell the diesel on the dipstick.

I have never had a 3 point hitch so yes I’m dumb. That is why I’m
asking. Does the hitch have down force or does it just float? How much
weight can it hold? How high does it lift? My plan is to have a lead box
hanging from the 3 point hitch with a blade on the back so I can back up
to a garage door and pull the snow far enough to get into blow. The
blade will flip over so I can have a metal cutting edge on one side and
a plastic cutting edge on the other for fancy cement driveways.

No down pressure on your 3PH just gravity/weight. That’s how most 3PH
systems are, because if they applied down-pressure they would begin to
lift the rear tires and cause them to lose traction. I don’t know the
lift height for your 3PH off-hand. But it is a Cat 1 Ltd class soft 3PH,
so it doesn’t lift as high as a full Cat 1. The lift capacity should be
listed in your owner’s manual probably around 600-700 lbs would be my
guess. You might try the rear blade without the extra weight. Blades are
fairly heavy all by themselves, and usually their mass is more than
enough to create the down pressure you need, especially for something
like snow scraping. Use the height stop for the 3 pt. If you put the
handle all the way down without using it will continue to drop every
time you go over a low spot. I set my blade on level ground so it just
touches and set the stop. It will still hit the high spots but not go
lower. I have a rubber edge on mine so it is a bit more forgiving.

I bought a new 1025R this spring with the drive on auto connect mower
deck with a vacuum and bag unit, and a 56 inch blower for the snow.

1 – Do you have to pull up on the PTO knob to keep the mower (and I
assume the snow blower) engaged to go into reverse and keep it running.
This is driving me nuts since I do a lot of reverse stuff. is there any
way that I can rewire this? I know it’s a safety thing but I’m ready to
sell this thing and go back to my old 455. I do grass and
snow commercially so time is money and every time I don’t pull it the
engine shuts down and I don’t like the idea of stopping and starting the
PTO 50 times a minute. I can see this is really going to be an issue
with the blower. Come on JD what were you thinking? I need to find a
wiring diagram so I can trick this knob with adding another switch. When
I put the peddle in reverse I don’t want to be pulling other to go into
reverse. Reverse peddle means I go backwards with PTO on. I can see
safety things like a seat switch (that needs to get disconnected because
every time I step off it and I don’t put it in neutral the engine shuts
off. If PTO is on sure but not just stopped and I get off. I think they
want to sell PTO clutches and starters.

2 – Why does this thing burn 2 times (or more) diesel than my old 455
that has roughly the same engine (3 cylinder diesel)? The new 1025R
smokes a lot on cold start up compared to the old 455!

3 – Why does the vacuum unit seem to shoot everything right into my
face? Seems like it is installed wrong from the dealer? Belt rubs on the
mower beck wheel bracket. hard to explain but I have to load it up on
Monday and drive 2 hours to the closest dealer that I bought it from and
show them. This is totally not acceptable. I spent a lot of money on
this tractor and there is a lot of “design” flaws so not impressed! I
have to cut with the mower deck on the highest setting so I don’t rotor
till the grass. I feel like it should go much higher. Why have an
adjustment of high and low if it leaves zero grass and only dirt if I go
any lower than high. The diff lock came engaged right from the dealer
also. The first time I cut the lawn I left skid marks everywhere (on
corners). Phoned the dealer and they said I must have it in 4 wheel
drive. I said the diff lock is stuck on. They said it can’t be. Well
after a hour of talking to them and getting nowhere I tore it apart
myself to save 4 hours of driving. It was the linkage was all gimped
right from the factory.

The yellow PTO knob. Come to a stop pull up on the knob then reverse,
while going backwards you can let go of the knob and it will stay
engaged. These a have a smaller fuel tank and it seems like it is using
more fuel, (at least that is what I found on mine) I don’t use any more
than my X748. The more hours I have put on the better it has gotten. (70
hrs now). Check your mower deck owner’s manual and it will tell you how
to adjust for max lift. Sounds like it’s not adjusted right. Had to do
it on mine. The notch on the cut height knob between install and max now
height is a transport setting. Should only have 1/8″ clearance.

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