John Deere 2320 Tractor Engine
Engine Model – Yanmar 3TNV76
Engine Power, Rated, hp (kW) – 24.1 (18)
Engine Speed, rpm – 2600
Power Boost, hp (kW) – No boost
Fuel Tank, gal (L) – 6.1 (23)
Cylinders – 3
Displacement, cu in (L) – 68 (1.15)
Engine Bore, in (mm) – 2.99 (76)
Engine Stroke, in (mm) – 3.23 (82)
Block Design, Replaceable Liners – Cast in block
Aspiration, Turbocharged or Naturally Aspirated – Natural
Fuel System
Fuel System Description – In-Line Pump System
Fuel System Control – Mechanical
Fuel Injection to combustion chamber – Indirect
Emission and Exhaust Treatment
Exhaust Pipe – Horizontal
Cooling System
Fan Drive Type – Belt
Electrical System
System Rating, Volts – 12
Alternator Rating, Amps – 20
John Deere 2320 Tractor Transmission
Description – Hydro: 2 Range
Transmission Type – Hydrostatic
Forward / Reverse Speeds – Infinite
Maximum Speed Forward, mph (kph) – 11.3 (18)
Creeper Range – Yes, hydrostatic
Shuttle (Forward-Reverse) – Yes
John Deere 2320 Tractor PTO (Power
take off)
PTO Horsepower, hp (kW) – 18 (13.4)
PTO Speeds, rpm – 540
PTO operational Type – Independent
Tractor Wheels
Drive Wheels – 4WD
Steering Configuration – Front Steer
John Deere 2320 Tractor Rear Axle
Final Drive – Spur gear
Axle Output End – Flange
Axle Bar Diameter, in (mm) – No bar axle
Tractor Brakes
Brake Type – Wet disc
John Deere 2320 Tractor Hydraulic
System
Hydraulic System Type – Open center
Main Hydraulic Pump Type – Dual gear
Standard Pump Flow, gpm (Lpm) – 5.6 (21.2)
Standard Remote Valves – 2
3-Point Hitch Features
3-Point Hitch Category – Category 1
Draft Sensing or Lift Control – Position Control
3-Point Hitch Lift Capacity
Standard Lift Capacity 24 Inches behind pin, lb (kg) – 1,150 (522)
Standard Lift Capacity at lift pin, lb (kg) – 1,433 (650)
Drawbar
Drawbar Description – Adjustable
Wheelbase
Wheelbase, 4WD, in (mm) – 63 (1600)
Tire Size
Front Tire Size, 4WD – 23×8.5-12R4
Rear Tire Size – 31×12-16.5R4
JD 2320 Tractor Equipments and
Implements
Quick Park Loaders – fast cycle times and impressive lift capacity for
higher loading performance. Save loading time and save time and put on a
simple off-three minutes or less.
Rotary Cutters – Designed for cutting hard to reach areas of large areas
faster and easier.
Mower inverter mechanical mid-Loader – Not more pipes switching back and
forth, the kit provides another coupler assembly mid SCV.
The operator simply moves a lever and diverts hydraulic fluid to the
implementation they choose to use. Real comfort when moving the mower
for loader work.
Blades – before moving dirt and gravel, snow removal, these blades can
before versatile right angle or left to make your job easier.
Tiller – Commercial heavy-duty tubular shafts with teeth for excellent
performance and durability even in compacted soil conditions.
Backhoes – New Backhoe 270 allows you to keep the hitch arm 3 points up
and lift with them. You can even leave the mid-mower deck in place
during installation and use of the backhoe. All these facilities while
providing powerful excavation and backfilling work.
John Deere 2320 Tractor Changing
Transmission Oil and Filter
– Run engine a few minutes to warm the transmission oil.
– Position drain pan(s) under transmission drain plug and final drive
drain plugs. Remove plugs and allow oil to drain.
– Position a drain pan under the transmission oil filter. Remove and
discard filter. Allow oil to drain completely.
– After oil is drained, remove two cap screws, two lock washers and
suction screen cover.
– Remove suction screen from JD 2320 Tractor transmission
housing.
– Remove magnets inside suction screen.
– Clean suction screen, suction screen cover, magnets and O-ring with a
mild solvent. Allow to dry.
– Inspect O-ring for damage or cracking. Replace if necessary.
– Install magnets inside suction screen.
– Install suction screen into John Deere 2320 Tractor transmission
housing.
– Install suction screen cover with O-ring onto transmission housing
with hardware.
– Install and tighten all drain plugs.
– Put a film of clean transmission oil on seal of new oil filter.
– Fill the filter 1/3 to 1/2 full with specified transmission oil.
– Install filter. Turn filter clockwise until gasket makes contact with
the mounting surface.
– Tighten 1/2–3/4 turn after gasket contact.
– Remove fill cap.
– Add recommended transmission oil into fill opening until oil level is
between 1/2 – 3/4 of the sight glass.
– Install fill cap.
– Start engine. Check for oil leaks.
– Stop engine.
– Check transmission oil level. Add oil if necessary.
Just got off the 2320 tractor when I heard a strange noise. Like a
click, click, click. When I looked at the PTO shaft I could see it
jerking as it twirled around. Both the rear and the mid shafts are doing
the same thing either independently or when they are both engaged. I
don’t feel any problems when I am moving the tractor, just with
the PTO. The tractor has 600 hours and is 5 years old. Think there is
any warranty left on the drive-train? Anyone ever get one of these
transmissions repaired before? How expensive are we looking at? I
thought I heard a noise the last time I was mowing, but it wasn’t as
loud. I hooked the tiller up to the rear PTO shaft just to see what
would happen, and it really got bad (noisy and jerking) just spinning
the tiller tines and not under a load.
My understanding was that the PTO are driven mechanically (via the main
drive shaft from the engine and gears in the transmission), not
hydrostatically. Mechanically driven off the engine, with a wet clutch
pack between to engage/disengage. There are some reduction gears in
there though, so they could be missing teeth.
So I changed my hydro fluid (70 hrs on machine) and the manual clearly
stated not to mix hydraulic fluid. Well it came with high viscosity and
I’m putting low into it so I drained all the fluid and then made a
mistake. I started the tractor for about 30 seconds to pump out the rest
of the fluid. I went on and finished the change and now I can drive
forward and backward but I cannot use the PTO, 3 point, power steering,
or FEL. I believe the pump has lost its prime. I have called dealers.
All of them don’t know anything they just said that impossible because
it self-primes. They told me to hold the bucket control with it running
to see if it will purge air. Well I tied the control down and it’s been
running for 30 minutes and guesses what? Nothing! The only thing I have
accomplished is to teach the dealers about the frigging tractor. One guy
even said that I knew more than him about it anyways so call a different
place. WOW. And one guy checked for an hour on Service and they couldn’t
find anything. The pump can’t be burnt out because the JD 2320 has one
hydro pump for everything and it can still drive forward and back. The
2520 has 2. I had to explain that to a dealer as well.
The 2305 and 2320 have two pumps: one for the drive train (move forward
and reverse) and the other for the power steering, 3PH, etc. The 2520
and 2720 have three pumps: a) The drive train, b) Power steering, c) 3PH
and all other hydraulics. In other words, the 2520 and 2720 have a
separate power steering pump. Check the clamps on the suction line. Then
remove fitting and fill that cavity with hydraulic oil. Reinstall the
plug and restart the engine. Be sure to not lose the copper sealing
washers when reinstalling the fitting. That should be enough to prime
it.
Well it seems there is an issue with my joystick control hydraulics.
With the tractor running and a load in the bucket, the bucket will
slowly drop and uncurl and that is with the tractor running at 2300 to
2500 rpms. I think the problem is isolated to the dual SCV as the 3pt
hitch does not drop at all. Is it possible there is a hyd cct in both
the lift and curl that is common and allowing both to leak down?
The IRV (Implement Relief Valve) is common to both circuits. If you
recently put it into relief while working the machine – it could be
sticking open. But, I believe that would also affect the 3PH. When the
valves are centered, theoretically the fluid is locked in the cylinders
and can’t escape. Practically, to form a perfect lock with the spool
valves means that clearances are non-existent and you won’t be able to
shift the spools. There is always some
leakage past the spools, and with a load in the bucket, the pressure is
higher which results in a higher rate of leakage and some small amount
of drift. Some spool valves are equipped with load checks which do form
a perfect lock and the load should not drift. The rate of drift is of
more significance than the fact that the cylinders are drifting at all.
A few inches per hour of arm drift is not a problem, considering the
leverage and load involved. A few inches per minute is significant drift
and should be addressed. It won’t get better on its own. The
possibilities for excessive drift are wear in the valve body, and wear
in the cylinder piston seals. A third possibility, if the valve is
equipped with load checks, is dirt or debris hanging up the checks. Not
likely considering the fluid is filtered, and the checks may not be on
both spools. Wear in the above mentioned components will be a factor.
The piston seal kits are less expensive that a new valve set. If the
seal kits don’t correct the problem, the valve set may need to be
rebuilt or, more likely, replaced.
Just picked up a used (365 hours) 2320 John Deere with 62″ mower deck
and 200CX loader. What is the normal RPM to run for mowing? Also the
plastic hood side panels have small cracks on both sides towards the
driver end where it meets the metal top. Is this a common problem caused
from vibration?
My wrap around lower hood section also has what I call stress cracks
where the metal hooks are attached to the plastic. I have a 2305 and run
my PTO at the little mark on the Tach. I know it’s 540 RPM for the rear
PTO but engine RPM I have to look when I’m on it later.
Running it at the PTO engine rpm just seems like way too much power for
a little grass cutting. Will it harm the engine to run it lower?
On the 2320, you have a separate transmission oil cooler, so you don’t
have to worry about keeping the little shaft-mounted cooling fan
spinning. So, you wouldn’t harm the engine per se. But, those mower
decks are designed to cut best at a certain blade speed. If you throttle
back, you may not get the best cut and may not eject the clippings as
well. I think there are times when you can throttle back during
operation (like when doing FEL work). But I think mowing is one of those
times when you want to be at PTO speed for best results.